With the onset of our region’s rainy weather, we at Critter Control have noticed that, especially at this time of year, critters are starting to look for warm places to stay as it gets colder.
This is a great time to conduct a comprehensive preventive inspection of the home. This includes looking for weakened foundation, soffit, and louver screens, compromised fan vent covers, or fresh evidence such as droppings, rub marks, or chewing marks in attics or crawlspaces.
Wildlife in the Crawlspace or Attic

If you are not hearing the rattling of chains but instead gnawing, scratching, or scurrying in the middle of the night, you most likely are dealing with a nocturnal animal. In most cases this means there are rats or mice in your attic or crawlspace. It is best to seal these areas before they become a severe issue.
Rats and mice multiply quickly; approximately 19-23 days after conception, their babies are born, and the cycle repeats itself. When rodents are in close proximity to food, shelter, and water, they can breed all year long.
It is best to have the situation taken care of quickly and properly to prevent hundreds, or even thousands, of dollars worth of damage occurs.
Roof rats are similar to mice; their droppings are about the size of rice, and mice droppings are pencil lead-sized. A combination of trapping, baiting, and exclusion work to seal off as many access points as possible is the best method to rid your home of these critters.
In addition to trapping and exclusion work, we typically recommend at least 3 months of rodenticide bait stations to protect the structure and ensure the rodent population is declining.
Winter Squirrels in the Attic
Another popular animal to find in your attic during this season is squirrels. The eastern gray squirrel has two breeding seasons in a year. One during the springtime, and the other in autumn.
During this time, they look for cozy, sheltered areas where they can raise their young. Squirrels have been known to damage electrical wiring, gnaw holes in siding, beams, and roofing, as well as bring in nesting materials, which can make a mess of your attic.
For these situations, we offer nest removals, live trapping, and clean-up services afterward. Exclusion and repair services will also be recommended to prevent the problem from recurring.
Many times, if your attic has been sealed off, you have little to worry about. However, they can be very persistent and gain access by chewing a new way in, starting with small holes and making them bigger until they fit through. A full home inspection is necessary to confirm there are no potential entry points at that time.
Northern Flickers & Other Woodpeckers

Sometimes the noises you are hearing sound like a jackhammer on the side of your home. This often indicates the presence of a woodpecker. Typically, the drumming you hear is a territorial display from male woodpeckers to announce their presence in the area, almost like the woodpeckers are trying to get their last word in before migrating to southern regions for winter.
More times than not a woodpecker issue on a house or other building is not a sign that you may have an insect problem. Usually, the woodpecker has decided that your property is now its territory and is making it known. Woodpeckers are a protected species, so once a home is affected, it can be tricky to deter them from the area. Here at Critter Control, we recommend repellents, deterrents, and exclusion methods to keep woodpeckers away.
Raccoons and Opossums in the Winter

If you are seeing divets, small holes, or dig marks in the ground, or sod being rolled back, you are most likely dealing with a raccoon or opossum problem. As food sources that were once readily available begin to dwindle with the cold weather coming in, urban wildlife has to search harder for food and will often become bolder. They are attracted to grubs and other creepy-crawlies beneath the grass.
Once a critter decides your yard is a good place to find food, it can be difficult to get them out. Live trapping is the most effective way to get the critters gone but repellents or hotwire fences are often utilized to minimize damage caused by them as well.
These critters don’t just stay outside, however. They are very good at gaining entry into a crawlspace or attic space as well. In these cases, it is best to trap and remove the animal, then repair the affected areas as soon as possible to prevent further incidents and damage. Exclusion and prevention work is often also recommended to help you stay critter-free. We also offer cleaning and restoration services for situations where the critters have made a mess while enjoying their stay!
Wildlife Control in the Fall & Winter in the Pacific Northwest
Critter Control has your solutions for your fall/winter wildlife problems in Seattle, Olympia, Spokane, Northwest Washington, and Portland, Oregon. We offer solutions that work, including:
- Repairs
- Exclusion
- Bait Stations
- Attic Restoration
- Crawlspace Restoration
- Repellents
- Wildlife Trapping/Removal
Here at Critter Control, we have noticed several patterns in wildlife in the Pacific Northwest. Contrary to popular belief, it’s not just breeding/baby season when animals are active. Hover over a month to see common critters during that season. Click on a critter to learn more detailed information.
Wildlife Activity in Spring
Spring is the time when leaves turn green; daffodils, tulips, and lilacs bloom; grass starts growing, and love is in the air for those pesky critters. With urban sprawl all around us, critters such as birds, squirrels, and raccoons have adapted to co-exist with humans by nesting in attics or crawlspaces, chimneys, in or under woodsheds or wood piles, in treehouses or under hot tubs or decks.
Any harborage area that is dark, quiet, and tight-fitting is ideal for nesting female critters. The time of day the noises are heard often indicates the species of critter you may be dealing with

Beaver mating season in Seattle begins in early spring (February through April) and kits are born at the end of spring, or early summer. Beaver litters are typically between two and five kits. The kits aren’t always the only baby beavers in the colony, though—young beavers often stay with their parents for up to two years. In some cases, while the parents are having a new litter, there may still be four to eight other siblings from the last two years’ litters. Beavers live in a colony, called a lodge, that contains many family members. They all look out for each other and will sound an alarm by smacking their tails onto the water.
During the spring, mice who live outdoors (and indoors) may be breeding. Litters are born with 5-6 hairless babies. They have a rapid growth rate and at about 2 weeks of age the babies will have fur and their eyes will be open. At about 3 weeks of age the baby mice will begin taking short trips away from the nest to find food. A female mouse is actively breeding year round and could have as many as 10 litters per year.
Douglas squirrels usually breed once a year, between February and April. The female Douglas squirrel will gather twigs, bark, moss, and other nesting materials to make her nest. The female will give birth about one month after mating to about 4-6 kits. The Douglas squirrel kits may stay with the mother for the first winter and will disperse the following spring to discover and claim their own territory. The squirrel kits will be self-sufficient once they reach three months old. The most notable feature of the Douglas squirrel is their dark gray coat with a bright orange belly.
Young are usually born in the early spring. They are raised by the female alone, due to her running off the male after reproducing. The female can have between 2-6 young per litter, and spring time is not the only season in which they breed. Eastern gray squirrels mate again in the early summer to have another litter in the autumn. Due to this breeding cycle, the eastern gray squirrel produce twice as many offspring as native squirrels in the area. Eastern grays thrive in urban areas due to the readily available food sources (bird feeders, garbage, friendly people who feed them in parks), access to shelter, less competition from other squirrels, and hardly any natural predators. The females will be out and about during the spring time with her young, teaching them all they need to know about being a squirrel.
Spring time means lots of changes for the long tailed weasel. As the weather begins to warm, the weasels will shed their white winter coat and replace it with their darker brown coat. This will help them stay in style, and also blend in with their surroundings. It’s around this time of year when the females will impregnate themselves, taking advantage of their ability to delay the fertilization process. The females will look for the perfect burrow, or nesting sight to raise her kits. Even if this means killing the animal(s) that made the burrow. They will be on the hunt for rotting trees, burrows made by rabbits, squirrel nests, or areas under tree roots or old stumps that are hollowed out. As territorial as the already are, the females will become even more so to defend her burrow and her soon to be family. Once born, a litter can consist of anywhere between 3-8 kits, and will take about 5-8 weeks to fully wean them. Although they are born blind and mostly hairless, their growth is rapid. By 4-5 weeks their eyes will be open and they will begin exploring the world with their mother.
Mountain beavers are commonly found in dense moist forests, or damp ravines in urban areas. in western Washington. They can also be found at steep sloped areas with fern vegitation. In the early spring, new kits are developing their incisors which will help facilitate their gathering of food, and nesting materials. Mountain beavers are rodents that constantly have to gnaw on hard objects, such as bark of trees or tough vegetation in order to grind down their teeth. Not only must they grind their teeth down on a daily basis, but they also have to consume a minimum of 1/3 of their body weight in water. Mountain beavers have primitive kidneys, and
Typically dark brown in color, muskrats have dense coats that are practically waterproof and covered in coarse guard hairs. They grow up to 24 inches in length and weigh around 4 pounds. As muskrats reproduce quickly and become aggressive when cornered, trapping and removing them without professional assistance can be both dangerous and time-consuming.
Baby northern flying squirrels are born in the early to late spring, depending on when the female mated. Northern flying squirrels have between two to five young. The mother is the only one that rears the young. The males are driven away and the female defends the nest from other squirrels. The young ones will then learn from their mother what to eat, how to store their food, and how to glide. Northern flying squirrels actually do not fly, the glide. Sometimes up to 100ft, from tree to tree to find food or get to their nest. It may take up to eight weeks of age for the young squirrel to muster up confidence to take its first flight. The membrane that allows the squirrel to glide is really awkward for the squirrels when walking. Thus, it makes them susceptible to predation if on the ground and not in a hiding place or in the trees.
During the spring time, you can find rats in any typical area you normally would. These little rodents will scurry around anywhere they find shelter and food sources. During the spring time, rats are known to begin to p ick up their breeding pace, however spring is not the only season in which rats reproduce. Rats reproduce at a very rapid pace, with a gestation of only 21 days litters are born almost every month year-round. During spring, rats will forage as usual, obtaining nutrients that may have been lost if the previous winter was harsh.
When the weather begins to warm, raccoons will begin looking for a mate. Their mating season falls between January and April, but some will breed late. The male and female raccoons do not raise their young together, and the male will leave to its own territory as soon as the reproduction process has finished. During their gestation of about 65 days, the female will look for a cozy and quiet place to build her nest. Depending on how cold the winter was, their thick winter coat will begin to shed, and females will use this to line their spring nests. Between late March and July, the female raccoons will have a litter of 2-6 completely helpless, hairless kits. During spring, female raccoons are typically focusing on raising their kits, and the males are establishing their own territories and foraging for food.
During this time of year, Washington’s river otters can be found playing long the banks, or in the water. Typically, female otters will be preparing to give birth to 2-4 pups. Mating the year before, they’ll be looking for suitable spots to make their dens. River otters, unlike their much larger cousins the sea otter, give birth in a den on dry land. This is to keep the pups in a safe and secluded place, and to shelter them from the unpredictable weather. Male otters’ will be defending their territory, and pretty much ignoring any females or pups that find themselves in his territory. In March-May is when females will give birth to small blind, toothless, and pretty much immobile pup’s. Their mother will raise them alone, and teach them how to be a successful otter. Almost immediately after giving birth, female otters will mate again, but not give birth again until the next spring through a process called delated fertilization.
During the spring time, rats are known to begin to p ick up their breeding pace, however spring is not the only season in which rats reproduce. Rats reproduce at a very rapid pace, with a gestation of only 21 days litters are born almost every month year-round. During spring, rats will forage as usual, obtaining nutrients that may have been lost if the previous winter was harsh.
When weather begins to warm in the spring, female striped skunks will begin looking for the perfect burrow, if they are unable to find one they will dig their own. When they create their own burrow, female skunks will typically dig out a funnel, about five feet long, and line the chamber with soft grasses and leaves. This is because they are preparing for the birth of 2-10 helpless kits. If for any reason this litter is lost, female skunks may breed more than once in one breeding season. Striped skunks breed between February and April, and with a gestation of 59-77 days their kits will be born between April and June. Baby skunks are born alive; however, they are hairless, sightless, and defenseless. Mother skunks are extremely protective, even more so than some other mothers. This is because they have numerous predators, and a helpless kit would be an easy snack. With coyotes, weasels, and bobcats, the mother also has to worry about male skunks. Male skunks do not assist in raising their young; in fact, if a male skunk were to come across a den with kits he would kill and eat them. However, he must maneuver around and avoid the mother or be blinded by her spray. As spring nears its end, the kits will begin to follow their mother around, and learn how to survive on their own.
During the spring time, you can find townsend chipmunks beginning to stir from their hibernation. They will be a little thin, due to sleeping away the winter. This is a very brief time for reproducing, only about 2 weeks after waking up from hibernation will they mate. After this process, they will begin foraging for much needed nutrients. Females will begin preparing their burrows for their litter that will be born in about 28 days. Born hairless, blind, and defenseless, her litter of 3-6 kits will be completely dependent on her. Males will be out re-establishing their territories.
During the springtime, vole signs may appear; you may find runway paths the voles created in the grass after the winter snow melts away. You may find some damage done to your spring plants. Voles love to eat bulbs, grasses, flowers, vegetables, fruits, and roots of plants. They primarily live in tunnels, and you may see signs of tunnels under the lawn surface.
Summer

The summer months in Critter Control in Seattle are when the adult beavers enjoy the benefits of parenthood. Once beaver kits are born, it takes no time for them to become curious about their surroundings—kits can swim within 24 hours of being born. They start venturing out of the lodge within weeks. Once the beavers start exploring outside the lodge, the parents are able to teach the kits beaver behavior. Some beaver kits are more instinctual than others. Summer provides many natural food sources for the vegetarian critters, including leaves, plants, water flowers, cattails, and more. Late summer and early fall mark major construction seasons for beavers, as they begin to construct their burrows.
During the summer months you may hear, or see mice around. Depending on the weather, they may be out in the open fields, and hiding in the tall grasses. However they are so small they can easily be hiding out under your home or in your walls. You may hear scratching, or find piles of stored food in your closets or pantry. They can, and will, almost always cause damage.
During summer, Douglas squirrels are busy finding food to eat and store up for the winter. Female squirrels with offspring are out and about showing their kits how to survive. Douglas squirrels will be defending their territory from other squirrels with loud vocal calls. For the most part, they are solitary and have a territory of about 2–3 acres. The Douglas squirrel has to compete with the non-native Eastern gray squirrel in Seattle for territory and food. During this time, their diet may include eggs, nesting birds, baby mice, invertebrates, and other fruits and nuts.
With summer, us wildlife operators have to be careful with bat situations. This is the peak time when bats have had the majority of their pups and colonize together. These are called nurseries. Young pups are completely reliant on their mothers until they are able to fly. That sometimes will not be until September. We as professionals are limited to do secondary exclusion work to seal off other areas, while leaving the main entry open for the adults to come and go. Once the pups are old enough to fly on their own, that is when we put a device to allow the bats to leavbe without being able to get back inside the structure. That is the most humane way of resolving bat issues in a structure. Usually the bats will then find a more natural are to move off to.
Between June and July is when the second breeding season for eastern gray squirrels will happen. The female will again raise another litter as she did in the spring. By that time, her first litter may have left the nest to find their on territory. The male has no part in the raising of the young. During this time of year, eastern gray squirrels are starting to put on a layer of fat to prepare for the winter. They will start collecting nuts, seeds, and other items to store for the winter while it is more redially available.
Oddly enough, summer time is when long tailed weasels will breed. Typically between July and August is when this will take place. It is not un-common for females to mate again while they are already rearing their litter from the previous year. In summer, with their litter born from the previous year, the kits will be learning day to day how to grow and support themselves. They will be opening their eyes during this time, and exploring the world with their mother. With a gestation that lasts about 10 months; the kits who are conceived during this summer, will not be born until the following spring. This is because the female will hold the males ingredient until it is needed for reproduction. This process is called delayed fertilization. Male long tailed weasel will be scavenging and looking for a suitable mate. During the summer, the diet of the long tailed weasels consists of small prey such as mice, rats, baby birds, eggs, and voles. However this is only their day to day meals. Sometimes, when a weasel gets a little bit more confident they will go after prey larger than them such as rabbits, birds, larger fish, and reptiles.
During the summer months you can find signs of mountain beavers in the plats and shrubs, although they are rarely seen. Mountain beavers eat most ferns along with deciduoud trees leaves and then they will eat the bark and seedlings of conifers and deciduous trees. Seedlings are their primary target and the damage sign is the base of the tree is cut at a 45 degree angle. The mountain beaver will also strip the bark from the base of the tree. They love rhododendron which we have plenty of here in Washington. During the summer, most of the burrowing occurs. They construct tunnels 5-7 inches in diameter, each burrow has five below ground chambers. The chambers have different purposes including nesting, feeding, refuse (debris or decayed food), toilet, and earth (excess earth and stones). With this intricate tunnel system, they can also have 10-30 entry and exit holes.
Typically dark brown in color, muskrats have dense coats that are practically waterproof and covered in coarse guard hairs. They grow up to 24 inches in length and weigh around 4 pounds. As muskrats reproduce quickly and become aggressive when cornered, trapping and removing them without professional assistance can be both dangerous and time-consuming.
During the summer time, northern flying squirrels will begin their hunt for winter reserves.The reason why northern flying squirrels are so elusive is because they are nocturnal and found in densely forested areas. They hunt for their food in the night, which they have perfect eye sight for. Unfortunately, there are many predators that hunt in the night as well. The prominent threats are birds of prey, such as owls, hawks and eagles in the air. On the ground, there are coyotes, bobcats, foxes, weasels, and martins. They must keep constant watch over everything around them, including females that have young with them. In some pockets in Western Washington, the areas that are not too developed and have old grown forest around them, there can be chance encounters with Northern flying squirrels.
Summer is another season in which you can find rats reproducing, or scurrying around to find new burrows, or areas where they can move to. Infant rats are weaned at about 4 weeks old, and reach sexual maturity at 5 weeks old. Growing families means they need more room to house themselves.
Summers for baby raccoons means outings with their mother, learning how to forage and climb, and becoming more independent. As they establish themselves, the young males will begin to wander further, and further from their mother. Eventually they will wander and never come back. Young females however, are a little bit different. They will spend their first winter with their mother, and eventually leave her during the next breeding season. Raccoons are nocturnal, which means they are most active at night. So during the summer months, you may be able to see them wandering around or foraging while you are relaxing on your patio at sunset.
During the summer, female otters will be continuing to raise their pups. By this time the pup’s eyes will be open, and they’ll be bouncing about. Otters are very playful creatures, and will typically be friendly with each other. Except for males protecting their territory; they’re pretty peaceful animals. As young pups grow and learn, you can find them playing in the water with their mother and siblings. By the time late summer arrives, the pups will be confident swimmers and diving to retrieve their own food.
Summer is another season in which you can find rats reproducing, or scurrying around to find new burrows, or areas where they can move to. Infant rats are weaned at about 4 weeks old, and reach sexual maturity at 5 weeks old. Growing families means they need more room to house themselves.
Summer time is the most active season for striped skunks. When the young begin to grow, and their mother can’t tolerate their energy being restricted to the nest, they will begin to venture. Following their mothers in a single file line, they will begin to forage and play. At this time the kits and mother have little to fear due to their developed anal glands. By one month of age, the young skunks can (and will if there is a need) spray. The spray that is released out of two anal glands is potent enough that it deters bobcats, coyotes, cougars, and humans. When a skunk is eaten by one of these predators it is as a last resort. The biggest threat to the young skunks are great horned owls. These birds of prey have a very undeveloped sense of smell, and are nocturnal. This means a skunk in the night is no match for this bird of prey. During summer, male skunks will wander about in search of their next meal. Male and female skunks stick to a relatively small area, and do not defend their territories much like other animals. Because striped skunks are primarily nocturnal, the best time to see one is at dawn or dusk, when they are waking up or getting ready to tuck into their den.
Summer is the time of year where garter snakes are most active. You can easialy find them basking in the sun, or stalking their next meal. Garter snakes are primarily diurnal, meaning they are active during the day. However, they may have some nocturnal tendencies. Snakes will feed all day long, but on extremely hot days they will most likely feed in the early mornings, or evenings when the temperature is not so extreme. Throughout the summer, the female snakes are preparing to gibe birth to 10-70 young between July and early October. Their offspring is born alive, and are completely independent as soon as they emerge from the womb.
During the summer, female townsend chipmunks will be raising their babies and teaching them how to go about life. Depending on when they were conceived, the kits will emerge from their burrows for the first time in early or late July; when the weather is warm, and food is bountiful. Male townsend chipmunks will be defending their territory and gorging themselves on berries, nuts, and grains.
Autumn

When fall and autumn set in, the mouse may have another litter of babies as they did in the spring. They may also begin preparing for winter and seek out shelter and warmth. Many times they will find this in barns, sheds, or even your home. During this time you may hear gnawing, because if they don’t their teeth can over grow. Because of their physical capabilities, they are able to gain entry into structures by gnawing, climbing, jumping, and swimming. Mice constantly explore and learn about their environment. They are great about memorizing locations and pathways, obstacles and food, water and shelter, and other elements in their domain.
Watch your step! Sometimes in the autumn months, the Douglas squirrel may toss the remainder of its food from the tree it’s been eating from. You may also hear warning “barks” as you are passing through their territory in your Seattle yard. Douglas squirrels become quite territorial in the autumn time to ward off any other squirrels from getting their food source or find their food reserves. Douglas squirrels will then collect their harvest and store it in a number of hiding spots, such as old woodpecker holes, hollow trees or logs, or under forest debris that the squirrel piles together. You may be able to see where a Douglas squirrel has been because you will see middens (trash heaps of cone/seed materials) piling on the ground. The favored trees of the Douglas squirrel are coniferous due to the cones the trees produce that have seeds for them to eat.
The eastern gray squirrel is really in full swing of consuming lots of fatty foods. Oil rich nuts, for example are a popular food for squirrels to consume because of the extra fat. The will also stash nuts, seeds, and other food sources in hiding places to go back to during the winter time. The litter from summer may or may not stay with the mother through the winter. Sometimes the mother will push out the males and keep her female offspring in the nest with her. The eastern gray squirrel will also shed its spring/summer coat, and start growing a coat made more for winter. They will shed their winter coat in the spring when it is warmer and they do not need a thick coat anymore.
During this time of year, the long tailed weasel is beginning to prepare for the winter ahead. Typically in the northern areas they will shed their summer coat of brown and tan, and grow a new pure white coat, except for the black tip of their tail which is present all year round. They may fatten themselves up a bit for the winter, but will continue to scavenge throughout the winter. At this time, many of the females will have successfully weaned their litters, and the kits will be off to find their own territories. This however, does pose a threat to the young weasels. If found by another rival weasel, a bloody battle will commence. Long tailed weasels are extremely aggressive, and tend to be over confident when threatening other much larger predators.
The mountain beavers typically live in wooded forests and meadows. They are usually found on hill sides with partly wooded vegetation near the holes. In the autumn, the mountain beaver will pile vegetation near the burrow until it becomes wilted or dries out. By stacking and allowing the vegetation to dry some, it will help lower the moisture content before bringing it into the nest, this also helps prevent mold from growing in the burrow and helps regulate the temperature inside. The mountain beaver needs to live underground to help regulate their body temperature. Once they move the vegetation inside it will be eaten or used as nest lining. They are active throughout the night and day but are rarely found far from their burrows.
Autumn is when things slow down a little, and the preservation of their food supplies ramps up. With trees that still have their cones or nuts, the northern flying squirrel will continue collecting for its winter stash. Sometimes, the nuts and seeds will never be recovered. So, squirrels hiding seeds and nuts helps the forest replant itself. The squirrels will also molt (shed) its fur coat in preparation for winter, which will come in thicker for the winter weather. They will use the shed fur to line its nest. Their coloration is a cinnamon to gray-brown for the body, and a cream colored belly, which helps at night to disguise itself with the darker colors in the forests they reside in.
Autumn is the time of year when their reproduction habits may slow, but not stop completely. They will be preparing for the winter, gathering food for their colony, and extending their burrows. Rats forage year-round and do not hibernate, but if they are expecting a significantly harsh winter thy will begin to fatten up.
As the leaves begin to change once again, a raccoons food intake will raise. This is because they need to fatten up for the oncoming winter and scarce food supply. During this time, they are also looking for a suitable den to sleep through the winter. Due to daylight savings, you may see raccoons earlier than sunset because of the time change.
Autumn is the time of year where their reproduction habits may slow, but not stop completely. They will be preparing for the winter, gathering food for their colony, and extending their burrows. Rats forage year-round and do not hibernate, but if they are expecting a significantly harsh winter thy will begin to fatten up.
Autumn is the time of year where their reproduction habits may slow, but not stop completely. They will be preparing for the winter, gathering food for their colony, and extending their burrows. Rats forage year-round and do not hibernate, but if they are expecting a significantly harsh winter thy will begin to fatten up.
Voles are typically solitary rodents, once autumn sets in, they change to social critters and have a communal nesting site. The vole does not have a specific breeding season and can breed continuously throughout the year. They can have 1-5 litters per year, with each producing 3-6 young.
Winter

With the onset of our region’s rainy weather, we at Critter Control have noticed that, especially at this time of year, critters are seeking warm places to stay as temperatures drop.
This is a great time to conduct a comprehensive preventive inspection of the home. This includes looking for weakened foundation, soffit, and louver screens, compromised fan vent covers, or fresh evidence such as droppings, rub marks, or chewing marks in attics or crawlspaces.
During the winter, mice do not hibernate and remain active. When they venture out, they will, however, stay even closer to the nest. Female mice may continue to have litters, but life will continue as normal for these little rodents. In the wintertime, it is more common to find mice inside man-made structures. Although mice do prefer to make their homes in quiet places and away from human activity, there is still a great possibility that they will find their way inside a home.
Douglas squirrels do not hibernate through the winter. Instead, Douglas squirrels live off the food reserves they collected during the summer/autumn season and possibly foraging on the left over cones. Sometimes, the stored seeds and nuts are not recovered. That leads to little seedlings sprouting the next year or so. Thus, the douglas squirrel inadvertently helps maintain the health of the forest. They will hunker down at their nest site, either mother and babies or individually. If the weather is good enough, sometimes the mating season may start as soon as February.
For the eastern gray squirrel, mating can begin in December or January. The males will fight to determine dominance, and the winner will have a better chance to reproduce. The winner persues the female through the trees until they are stimulated enough to majority of litters are born in March, which the female squirrels are already preparing for now. The eastern gray squirrel does not hibernate in Washington; however, their activity will slow a bit. There are usually several dens that are occupied throughout the year as well as several nests built high in the tree canopy. This would be the best scenario with the eastern gray squirrel. Unfortunately, it is more common to find these squirrels in homes or commercial buildings. Eastern gray squirrels are notorious for getting into man made structures, so much so that they are most commonly found in urban areas as opposed to the other native squirrels in Western Washington. Manmade structures, such as our nice, cozy homes, have become the new norm in terms of where they will co-habitate. Squirrels have been known to store their food cache in attics during the winter, where normally the cache would be stored underground, in tree hollows, or rotting trees.
With the acceptance of their shiny new white coat of fur, there is no dramatic change in the weasels’ behavior during the wintertime. They will hunker down in their burrows, which they have stolen from other animals. Because their prey remains readily available, they can continue living as usual through the snowy months. Feasting on rats, mice, voles, chipmunks, or squirrels; the long-tailed weasel will use the element of surprise when hunting. Their new white coat helps them blend in with the snow around them, which helps when hunting for prey. But it also helps them avoid being preyed upon by their own predators, such as coyotes, owls, bobcats, or foxes.
During the winter months, mountain beavers are typically not seen often. They do not hibernate and will make burrows through the snow to travel. Mountain beavers typically mate during the winter, and their gestation is about 30 days.
Autumn is when things slow down a little, and the preservation of their food supplies ramps up. With trees that still have their cones or nuts, the northern flying squirrel will continue collecting for its winter stash. Sometimes, the nuts and seeds will never be recovered. So, squirrels hiding seeds and nuts helps the forest replant itself. The squirrels will also molt (shed) its fur coat in preparation for winter, which will come in thicker for the winter weather. They will use the shed fur to line its nest. Their coloration is a cinnamon to gray-brown for the body, and a cream colored belly, which helps at night to disguise itself with the darker colors in the forests they reside in.
Although rats do not hibernate, their daily activities will decrease during the colder months of winter. However, during especially harsh winters, it is not uncommon to find them tucked away in their burrows for multiple days. Reproduction habits slow, mainly due to the climate change and the limited resources; however, it does not stop.
Raccoons in the winter will typically seek out dens, or protected areas where they can live out the cold months. Unfortunately, these little critters will find their way into residential homes or industrial sites on occasion. Their coat will thicken, but will be in proportion to the severity of the winter they are experiencing. A raccoon’s tail will also fatten up, and they will wrap it around themselves much like a blanket. Although food may be scarce, a raccoon is very good at adapting to its circumstances.
Raccoons enter a state called torpor, which is much like hibernation; however, it is not precisely the same. This state lowers the mammals’ metabolism, blood sugar, and body temperature. As the amount of energy they need for survival drops significantly, they are able to sleep through most of winter. Torpor allows the raccoons to sleep in their dens for weeks on end, because they are not hibernating, on warmer days they will emerge from their dens and forage for food. This is helpful for the raccoons because they will remain alert to predators and potential prey.
Otters do not hibernate, meaning they are active all year round even in the cold months of winter. Their thick coat will thicken even more, allowing them to preserve their body heat in the frigid water. Otter life will continue as normal during the winter, males will be defending their territories, and females will be getting prepared for the birth of their next litter.
Although rats do not hibernate, their daily activities will decrease during the colder months of winter. However, during especially harsh winters, it is not uncommon to find them tucked away in their burrows for multiple days. Reproduction habits slow, mainly due to the climate change and the limited resources; however, it does not stop.
During the winter months voles do not hibernate; they will make tunnels through and under the snow. They will nibble on shrubs and tree bark for nutrition. Voles will cut runway paths through grasses and small plants, feeding on vegetation as they move under the snow. You may not notice this until the snow melts away.
To the dismay of many homeowners, rat infestations are more common than most people realize. Thriving in urban, suburban, and rural settings, rats have lived alongside humans for thousands of years and have perfected the art of helping themselves to the shelter, food, and water our homes provide.
According to the American Housing Survey, approximately 16 million homes and 38 million people report a rodent issue annually. They cause an estimated $6 billion in structural damage to homes by gnawing on beams, walls, insulation, and electrical wires. In addition to structural damage, they contaminate food and spread disease.
The odds of a home having a rat infestation at some point are high, at around 30 percent. And while a wildlife or pest control company such as Critter Control can humanely and quickly rid your home of rats, one smart step you can take is to learn how to lessen the odds that rats choose your home to invade.
Why Are Rats in My House?

Rats don’t show up at a home on a whim. Certain conditions make a home appealing to them. While many people believe cleanliness is the primary factor, it’s only one small piece of the puzzle. Even the cleanest of households can find themselves needing rat control.
Like most wildlife, rats are looking to cover their necessities: shelter, safety, food, and water. When you inadvertently make these basic needs easily available, you leave yourself open to these unwanted houseguests. Make your home unattractive to rats, and you’ll find you’ve made it unappealing to many of the creatures looking to have their basic needs met.
Smart Steps for a Rat-Free Home
There are many steps, both inside and outside your home, you can take to make it less likely to be a target for rats. These are not one-and-done steps—you should make them part of your routine maintenance for the best results.
Yard Work
- Trim vegetation that rats can use to hide.
- Cut branches away from your roof, as roof rats will easily access your attic.
- Clean up fruit that has fallen from trees.
- Keep firewood at least 20 feet from your house.
- Use rodent-proof bird feeders.
- Don’t leave pet food or water outside.
- Secure trash can lids.
Protect Food
- Don’t store food on counters.
- Store food in sealed glass or plastic containers.
- Regularly clean up crumbs from counters and floors.
- Wash dishes promptly.
These rodents are actively foraging and mating year-round; the winter months don’t stop or slow them down. With this in mind, your home is a great place for them to build a nest for their litters in late autumn.You should also keep your home clear of any lingering food sources that could attract them. Don’t leave food lying around after meals, Thanksgiving or holiday parties; be swift about putting all leftover food away in sealed containers, and be sure they’re hard, durable ones that rats cannot chew through. You’ll also want to make sure you don’t have crumbs lying around anywhere in your home, as that will attract them too.
Remove Water Sources
- Repair leaking pipes and faucets.
- Don’t leave standing water in sinks, tubs, or pet bowls overnight.
Declutter
- Minimize stored clothing and newspapers.
- Store items in sealed plastic cartons instead of cardboard boxes.
Repair Entry Points
- Seal gaps around doors and windows.
- Repair roof, soffits, and shingles.
- Cap vents and chimneys.
- Seal any cracks in the walls and the foundation.
Routine Monitoring
- Inspect your attic, basement, and crawlspace periodically for droppings, gnaw marks, and oily rub marks.
Do-It-Yourself Prevention
Rats are smart and cautious creatures, and there are many products on the market that seem like easy fixes. While most of these are affordable and convenient, they rarely work and also don’t address the root problems that bring rats to your home.
Ultrasonic pest repellents emit high-frequency sound waves intended to repel rodents. Unfortunately, rats adjust to the stimuli, and it just becomes background noise to them. In addition, walls and furniture block the waves and create areas where they do not reach.
Essential oils are supposed to irritate rats, but the scent fades and requires constant reapplication. Rats will endure a smell they don’t like if all their other needs are being met. Mothballs are another scent-based DIY solution with limited use, as the chemicals needed to work are at a higher concentration than what is safe for indoor use and are also unsafe for children and pets.
Rat poisons are unsafe both indoors and outdoors as they pose significant risks to pets, wildlife, and children. When a rat dies in your wall, the terrible smell will linger for weeks.
Make Critter Control Your Rat Prevention and Rat Control Partner
Critter Control is one of the most widely recognized and respected names in humane wildlife control. Critter Control technicians are highly trained professionals who understand rodent biology and behavior, and their expertise extends to building science and the ways wildlife enter homes. They know the federal, state, and local ordinances that oversee wildlife removal.
Critter Control’s focus is on long-term rat control solutions that include prevention, exclusion, removal, sanitation, and restoration of rodent infestations. Most pest exterminators only remove rats from your home; Critter Control delivers a comprehensive plan with proven methods that bring you peace of mind.
Contact Critter Control for a free inspection and custom plan today to keep your home safe and rat-free.
When you first hear scratching in the walls or spot droppings under the sink, it’s natural to hope a simple DIY fix will make the problem disappear. We understand the appeal: quick, inexpensive solutions feel practical and empowering. But rat control is more complicated than many homeowners expect. As wildlife professionals, we’ve seen firsthand how intelligent, cautious, and adaptable rats can be, and how often DIY efforts fail to resolve the root of the issue.
In this article, we break down why DIY approaches fall short for rodent control, how professional wildlife management makes a lasting difference, and why trusting experienced specialists is ultimately the safer and more dependable choice for your family and home.
Most Common DIY Rat Control Strategies
- Snap Traps
- Bait Stations
- Electronic Traps
- Glue Boards
- Natural Repellents
- Exclusions
The Challenges of DIY Rat Control
Before deciding whether DIY rat control will fully resolve the problem, it helps to understand how rats behave and why common at-home tactics often fall short. The challenges below are the ones we see most often when homeowners try to tackle infestations on their own.
Rats Are Smart, Trap-Averse Problem-Solvers
Rats don’t simply wander into traps. They’re wary of anything new in their environment, often testing, avoiding, or outsmarting devices placed in their path. When a homeowner sets a trap in the wrong place — or catches one rat while others learn to avoid the setup — the infestation can continue unnoticed.
Most DIY Methods Don’t Address the Cause
Catching a rat won’t stop new ones from entering. Rats can slip through openings as small as a quarter and use vents, gaps in siding, spaces around plumbing, or tiny cracks in your foundation as entry points. Many homeowners seal the obvious holes but miss the subtle ones (the ones rats prefer). Without thorough exclusion, the infestation often returns.
Repellents and Poisons Create Their Own Risks
Store-bought solutions may appear convenient, but they often create more problems than they solve, including:
- Poisons: Can cause rats to die in walls or attics, leading to severe odors and sanitation hazards.
- Repellents: Tend to be inconsistent and temporary — rats often ignore or adapt to them.
- Improper Placement: Can put pets or children at risk.
DIY options often seem straightforward, but they can introduce new safety concerns and leave underlying issues unresolved.
Why Professional Rat Control Delivers Better Results
Choosing professional wildlife control goes beyond convenience. It means relying on proven methods that resolve the entire problem and safeguard your home for the long term. Our structured, science-backed approach delivers better outcomes.
At Critter Control, we take a comprehensive, humane, and strategic approach to rat removal. We go further than simply removing the rats. We also focus on stopping hidden activity to end the problem and prevent future intrusions.

Inspection
A successful plan begins with knowing exactly how rats entered, where they’re nesting, and how far the damage has spread. Our team examines:
- Entry and exit points
- Nesting sites
- Food and water sources
- Structural vulnerabilities
- Signs of long-term activity
This gives us a complete picture of the infestation and the safest, most effective way to resolve it.

Rat Removal
Our specialists understand rat behavior and place traps accordingly: along established travel paths, near nesting sites, and in positions designed to maximize effectiveness. We never rely on guesswork to remove rats from your property.
We also avoid hazardous chemical treatments, keeping your family and pets safe throughout the process.

Rat Exclusion
Exclusion is one of the most important steps in rat control, and it’s where DIY approaches struggle most. We use durable, wildlife-resistant materials to seal:
- Siding gaps
- Roofline and soffit openings
- Foundation cracks
- Crawlspace and attic entry points
- Vent and pipe gaps
This step helps ensure rats can’t simply return once the immediate issue is handled.

Damage Repair and Restoration
Rats can leave behind hazards such as chewed wiring, contaminated insulation, and structural damage. We provide professional animal damage repair services to help restore your home to a clean, safe condition and reduce long-term risks.
Caring for Nature While Protecting Your Home
Many homeowners want rat problems solved in a responsibly and humanely —and we share that priority. Our approach balances effective wildlife control with environmental stewardship, ensuring your home is protected without unnecessary chemicals or harm to the animals or the surrounding ecosystem.
We prioritize:
- Humane trapping and removal
- Responsible habitat modification
- Avoiding unnecessary chemicals or harsh treatments
- Long-term solutions that reduce future conflicts
We believe wildlife management should protect both your home and the natural world around it.
DIY vs. Critter Control: A Quick Comparison
DIY Methods
- May catch one or two rats, but rarely the whole colony
- Often miss entry points
- Can create safety risks for pets and children
- Do not include sanitation or damage repair
- Require guesswork and repeated effort
Professional Pest Control
- Identify and eliminate the entire problem
- Seal entry points to prevent re-entry
- Use safe, humane, science-backed techniques
- Repair damage and restore your home
- Provide dependable, long-lasting protection
Why the Difference Matters
For rat control, the real distinction isn’t just between doing it yourself and hiring a professional. It’s between temporary relief and lasting protection. Understanding that difference helps you make an informed decision that protects your property and peace of mind.
A rat infestation is a threat to your home’s structure, your family’s safety, and your peace of mind. DIY attempts may feel convenient, but incomplete or ineffective efforts can allow infestations to spread.
Our team is committed to being the reliable partner homeowners can trust. With our training, experience, and focus on humane, responsible wildlife management, we make sure the job is done thoroughly, safely, and with lasting results.
We’re Here When You Need Us
A rat problem can grow quickly, but you don’t have to face it alone. We’re here with the expertise and support to make the process clear, manageable, and effective. When you choose professional wildlife control, you gain a dependable, safety-focused partner committed to humane solutions and a safer home.
Most people know that Critter Control is the go-to company for wildlife removal, including raccoons, squirrels, and bats. But some don’t realize the value we provide because we can handle any pest problem. When you bundle all your pest control services with us, we can efficiently and effectively handle them.
For this homeowner, on one trip, we helped protect their house from carpenter bees, rats and mice, and woodpeckers.
Pest Control Application
During the summer, carpenter bees were causing significant damage to the siding above their front door. Our initial treatment eliminated the carpenter bees. Then we repaired the holes left and painted them to match her house color. Through the summer, we apply pest control applications to keep the carpenter bees away.
Rodent Control in the Yard

The homeowners had experienced a rat problem last year. They were crawling up the siding and found a way inside the attic near the chimney. The rat trapping took a little less than a week to exterminate the rats inside the attic.
We installed exclusions along the flashing near the chimney to keep the rats out.
We installed these tamper proof bait stations to control the population outdoors. It stops the rats outside before they can get inside and cause more damage. We check these bait stations once a month and monitor for any additional rodent activity.
Woodpecker Deterrents and Repair
In East Cobb, homes like this, built in the late 1970s and early 1980s, are susceptible to carpenter bee and woodpecker damage. These folks also had a woodpecker problem.
We repaired the holes by filling them in and color-matching the paint. This was on the back of their house.


Trying to catch or trap a woodpecker is not feasible or legal. The best bird control for woodpeckers is to scare them away. This installed bird deterrent on the back of their home kept the woodpeckers away and stopped the constant drilling into their home.

Squirrel Signs and Damage in Westminster Attic
A homeowner in Westminster was experiencing scratching sounds early in the morning.
One of the most common squirrel signs people notice is sounds above their ceiling early in the morning. The scampering noises can be loud enough to wake you up and make it difficult to fall asleep. Our first step in an inspection is to hear your concerns. Wherever you’re experiencing a nuisance like sounds or strange odors, that’s where we start. We don’t stop there, though. Our inspection covers the entire house. There’s a reason all of our trucks have ladders on them! From the roof to the crawlspace, we’ll investigate each nook and cranny to find evidence of nuisance wildlife.
Squirrel Damage to the Exterior of the House
During our inspection, we found a suspicious gap above the portico on the front of the house.
Squirrels can be tenacious. They only need a gap the size of a golf ball to squeeze inside your home.
Signs of Squirrel Entry from Inside the Attic
You can spot squirrel entry holes inside the attic by looking for sunlight. They won’t keep to just one entry hole. Squirrels will explore your whole home and find or create several entry gaps. If you miss an entry hole and don’t seal it, your home will remain vulnerable to infestations.
Squirrel Damage to HVAC
Our inspection covers the entire house and property. We identify all the damage caused by the invading critter. This homeowner was experiencing trouble with the HVAC unit.
Whole Home Exclusion for Squirrel Pest Control in Westminster, Colorado
Once squirrels have identified a home as a good place to shelter, they’ll return to access it again. We found evidence of squirrel entry spots along the roof eaves, but the roof vents were vulnerable, too. Uncovered roof vents and plumbing stacks are common entry spots for squirrels and raccoons, rats, and bats. Our exclusion services protect your home from all types of nuisance wildlife.
A local power plant in Seattle was having problems with pigeons. Pigeons can be quite a problem for anyone, especially those who have to battle them roosting in a building they are trying to work in. They can be destructive, bringing in toxic spores that thrive in their droppings.
Pigeon Problems
The pigeons were roosting in the rafters of the plant. While seemingly benign they were causing problems to the building and for the employees, which included:
- Health risks: Pigeon droppings can harbor a host of pathogens that can pose a threat to human health. They can carry various diseases, such as histoplasmosis, cryptococcosis, and psittacosis, which may be transmitted to people via contact with contaminated surfaces or inhaling airborne particles.
- Structural damage: Accumulated pigeon droppings can corrode commercial buildings, slowly destroying materials like metal, wood, and stone. This compromises the building’s structural integrity and can open the door to water damage and issues with mold, mildew, and rot.
Bird Netting for Pigeon Control
We installed bird netting under the roof to keep the pigeons from roosting. It took 2.5 days, three lifts, and almost a whole Seattle Critter Control team to net a couple of their outbuildings against some pesky pigeons!







Understanding the Value of Pigeon Control Maintenance
While resolving a pigeon infestation is an integral first step in keeping these birds at bay, it’s only part of a long-term solution. Ongoing maintenance is equally essential in preventing them from returning and causing the same problems.
At Critter Control, we design a comprehensive maintenance plan tailored to your needs. From regular inspections to deterrent installations, we’re here to help you keep pigeon populations under control. Pigeons have a strong homing sense, so control isn’t a one-and-done situation. Ongoing maintenance is often necessary to ensure the birds don’t become a recurring problem.
Chimney swifts are migratory birds that spend the summer months in the eastern United States, including Philadelphia, before returning to their wintering grounds in South America. In Philadelphia, chimney swifts can often be seen flying around and roosting in the city’s many old brick chimneys, which provide them with suitable nesting and roosting sites. These birds play an important role in the local ecosystem by helping to control insect populations, particularly mosquitoes and other flying insects.
With this recent warmer weather, these homeowners heard twittering in their chimneys. After some investigation, they noticed birds flying out of their chimney during the day. They gave us a call, and during our whole home inspection, we found evidence of chimney swifts nesting in their chimney.
Birds nesting in your chimney can cause homeowners a variety of issues. Professional bird removal from your chimney is needed. Learn more about the problems associated with birds in chimneys and our effective solutions for bird control.
Signs of Chimney Swifts in Chimney
Flying Birds
If chimney swifts are living in your chimney, they will fly out to feed in the early morning and return to your chimney in the evening. It is easy to mistake swifts for bats. Unlike swifts, bats have an opposite schedule. Bats are nocturnal. If you see flights out of your chimney at sunset, it’s most likely to be bats.
Chimney Swift Sounds
Common chimney swift sounds primarily consist of a twittering call produced by a series of rapid, high-pitched chirps. Each call lasts about three seconds. In groups, the chirping can sound like buzzing insects. When their colonies are disturbed, adult chimney swifts slap their wings together to create a loud booming noise, while nestlings make raspy sounds.
Chimney Swift Droppings


They are often found in clusters or lines on the chimney, as the birds tend to roost and nest in chimneys. The droppings can accumulate and create a noticeable buildup on the exterior of the chimney, especially around the top or opening.
Chimney Swift Problems
Just because chimney swifts are a protected bird doesn’t mean you have to ignore an infestation. Chimney swifts can damage your chimney and spread diseases to you and your family.
Bird droppings contain bacteria, parasites, and allergens affecting the lungs. Dried bird droppings grow fungi that cause respiratory diseases such as histoplasmosis and tuberculosis and can also worsen existing respiratory illnesses such as asthma. Chimney swifts build their nests using twigs, saliva, and other materials, which can accumulate over time and block the chimney flue.
Chimney Swift Control Solutions From Critter Control of Philadelphia
Birds are federally protected by the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. It is unlawful to kill, capture, or harm them in any way. When you need bird removal from your chimney, the professionals at Critter Control are your best solution. We have over 40 years of experience in the humane and lawful removal of any nuisance animal in and around homes.
Bird exclusions are physical barriers that keep birds out or away from certain areas. Exclusions are employed after birds have been eradicated from your chimney to keep them from returning. Exclusion is a more permanent solution.
Chimney caps are protective coverings that fit on top of your chimney. In addition to keeping birds out, they will keep other wildlife, such as raccoons and squirrels, out. Made of metal, they come in different sizes and will keep rain and snow from damaging your chimney’s bricks and dampers, prevent downdrafts, and keep embers from flying out onto your roof.
Placing a chimney cap has to be done in the fall after chimney swifts have left on their migration south. When they return in the spring, they will not be able to enter the chimney to take up residence again. Repairing and sealing around your chimney ensures chimney swifts cannot find an alternate entrance into your chimney.
A Note on Chimney Swifts in Philadelphia
Chimney swifts are beneficial birds to have around the yard when nesting outside and away from your home. When you see them soaring back and forth high in the air, they are catching bugs mid-flight, eating as many as 12,000 insects—mosquitos, wasps, and aerial spiders—daily. Chimney swifts are in decline, and many chimney swift supporters build a chimney swift tower in their yards or advocate for them in parks.
Support Local Chimney Swift in Philly:
One of the first questions many people ask is, “How much does pest control cost?” The answer depends on several factors. The type of pest, the severity of the infestation, the size of the property, and the frequency of service all play a role in determining the price. A small ant problem in a kitchen, for example, will cost less to treat than a severe rodent infestation spread across multiple rooms.
We also offer both one-time services and recurring plans. A one-time treatment may be enough for minor infestations, but recurring services provide long-term protection that saves money by preventing larger issues down the road. Many of our customers find that a year-round plan offers the best balance of cost and peace of mind.
At Critter Control, we believe in transparency. Our technicians explain pricing clearly during your free inspection, so you understand exactly what you’re paying for before any work begins. There are no hidden fees, no surprises—just straightforward answers and guaranteed service. Contact us today to schedule your free inspection and learn more about the options available for your property.
The house mouse is also known as the Mus musculus. It is known for its large ears, pointed snout, and virtually hairless tail.
Mice are typically attracted to kitchens; we highly recommend storing all food in airtight containers for this reason. Mice will also gnaw on virtually any surface or material to get into a home, such as insulation, wiring, and wood. It’s not uncommon to also find mice in attics, crawlspaces, and garages.
Home owners will see signs of mouse damage typically before seeing an actual mouse. This is partly due to mice being more active at night. But it is not uncommon to see the mice scampering throughout their house.
The top 3 signs of a mice infestation:
- Droppings
- Nests
- Damage to food packaging
Mouse droppings are small and dark and usually found on kitchen floors near baseboards. Their nests can be found in hidden areas such as inside drawers or even mattresses. Pantry foods are the most common target for mice that have infiltrated a home, so start by checking the integrity of your food packaging in your pantry. Other evidence of a mouse infestation in the attic include damaged insulation, stripped electrical wires, and gnawed PVC pipes.
Where Do Mice Live in a Home?
Mice prefer warm, dark, and sheltered areas, such as wall cavities, attics, basements, and storage sheds. Mice can squeeze through holes 1/4 of an inch in diameter or larger. Because mice have powerful teeth and are highly motivated by available food and warm shelter, they can also easily create holes or enlarge existing holes to get inside.
How do mice get inside my house?
The most common entry points for mice are pipes, vents, and doors or windows attached to either the main house, or the garage.
Mice can climb any textured vertical surface and can jump over a foot off the ground. They can access uncovered vents, chimneys, windows with broken screens, and through utility pipes that run through exterior walls.
Mouse Infestation Prevention
It’s best practice to keep food stored in pantries in air-tight containers and to always clean up crumbs. Wipe down your cabinets and the insides of your cabinets regularly. However, cleaning the space where a mouse was found will not necessarily prevent mice from coming back; the only way to do this is by sealing up entry points.
Stop mice from getting into your home by making your yard less attractive to mice. Mice use dense underbrush and debris like leaves and twigs to take shelter from predators. Clearing yard debris will remove shelter for mice to hide under. Mice outdoors don’t pose as much of a threat as those indoors. However, the pests always have the potential to find their way inside homes to look for a meal or a place to nest.
How Critter Control Gets Rid of Mice
Mice trapping typically lasts five to fourteen days but that can change depending on the size of the house and how well established the mice are. The most effective mouse control method is exclusion repairs. This involves sealing off any current or possible entry points on the home, followed by a thorough inspection and sanitation process. It’s important to repair any damage the mice may have done to the house and disinfect any areas with mouse droppings.
About the author
Meg has over 13 years of experience in the wildlife industry. She started as a wildlife technician and was district manager and technical training manager supporting the Southeast Region. She currently is one of the company’s wildlife training managers. As one of the training managers, her primary focus is special projects and leading Women in Wildlife.
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Skunks are attracted to areas with accessible food sources and shelter. By eliminating these attractants and implementing certain deterrents, you can reduce the likelihood of them entering your yard.
Lawns, especially newly created ones, are immensely attractive to skunks, as they tend to be heavily watered and loaded with worms and grubs. Skunks dig small holes where grubs are located, which can make your lawn ugly quite quickly.
How do you know a skunk is in your yard?
You can typically tell when a skunk is in your yard by their pungent/distinct odor. If you see signs of digging or upturned soil in your yard, it may be the result of skunk foraging.
When are skunks a problem in the yard?
Skunk problems are typically at their peak during three times of the year:
- Mating season (mid-February through mid-March)
- Birthing seasons (May–June)
- Winter foraging (approximately October–November) when skunks dig up lawns searching for grubs and worms
Skunk Mating Season
Mating season involves skunks seeking mates — and this often occurs nears homes. Homeowners report skunk tracks in the snow or smell skunk spray. Skunks secrete spray when they are mating and males often spray when they’re fighting and feel threatened.
Birthing Season
The season of skunks’ birth is a precarious one for removal — we can either relocate the entire family, including mother and babies, or we can seal off the areas that skunks are inhabiting and install a one-way valve that allows the family to exit but not re-enter. This can only be done when young are able to walk (3+ weeks).
The very last thing we want is to separate a mother from her kits. When we trap skunks, we always inspect the gender of the animal to ensure we aren’t accidentally relocating a mother who may get separated from her young on your property Many wildlife companies may not attempt the extra care of not separating mothers from their babies, but Critter Control of New Hampshire considers it a necessary step.
Skunk Winter Foraging
When skunks forage in lawns, it can often look like someone ran a rototiller across your yard. In some parts of the country, fall brings rain, which saturates the soil and brings earthworms to the surface. This provides easy access to a food source for skunks.
Skunk control for your yard
Skunks are attracted to the worms and grubs in your lawn and garden. Lay down 1-inch mesh chicken wire, securing it with stakes or heavy stones.It’s also important for homeowners to prevent access to denning sites, as skunks will readily den under houses, sheds, or porches if given the chance. Close off these areas with ¼-inch hardware cloth, boards, or metal flashing. Make all connections flush and secure, and you’ll keep out smaller animals like mice and rats, too.
Each state has their own laws and regulations regarding skunk removal. Homeowners should avoid attempting skunk control themselves and should instead call a professional due to the risk of rabies and diseases transmitted through skunk bites, as well as potential property damage from their foraging and sharp claws.
About the author
Meg has over 13 years of experience in the wildlife industry. She started as a wildlife technician and was district manager and technical training manager supporting the Southeast Region. She currently is one of the company’s wildlife training managers. As one of the training managers, her primary focus is special projects and leading Women in Wildlife.
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Raccoons seem like an ideal pet. They’re cute, clever, and resourceful critters. There are several popular social media channels showcasing the inquisitive and intelligent behavior of pet raccoons. One man in Kansas has made it his mission to change the local laws so people could have a pet raccoon legally in Kansas.
But raccoons do not make good pets.
From the serious health risks they pose to the extensive damage they can cause, adopting a raccoon is fraught with challenges that far outweigh any perceived benefits. This article will explore seven key factors that demonstrate why raccoons should be appreciated from a distance, rather than welcomed into our living spaces.
Here are seven reasons to resist the urge to adopt one of these masked bandits as a pet.
1) Rabies and Other Infectious Diseases
Studies show that raccoons make up nearly 30% of all rabies cases in the United States. Raccoons also carry zoonic parasites and infectious diseases that can spread to you, your family, and your pets.
Raccoons also carry fleas and ticks. Both of which can spread to people and pets introducing another whole host of problems.
Additionally, raccoon droppings can cause raccoon roundworm (baylisascaris procyonis); a parasitic worm that can harm both humans and pets. The egg spores in the raccoon droppings are light and can quickly become airborne, resulting in a dangerous infection.
Common Raccoon Diseases:
- Rabies
- Baylisascaris procyonis (raccoon roundworm)
- Leptospirosis
- Giardiasis
- Salmonella
- Canine distemper
2) Behavior and Temperament

Raccoons are smart, curious, active, and playful animals. However, they are also demanding, attention-seeking, and unpredictable.
Born to roam wild, raccoons act out when held captive. When trapped in confinement, they will use their long, dexterous, tapered fingers and nails to pry their way out.
Simply put: Adopting any wild animal as a pet is extremely dangerous. Their instincts will often override any “training” you try to impart on them, and they will always act in unpredictable ways.
3) Known to Act Out if Unhappy
Once a raccoon reaches sexual maturity, the cute and cuddly baby becomes unpredictable.
When upset or moody, raccoons can act like hormonal teenagers. These selfish critters can turn vengeful, aggressive, and territorial in an instant all to assert their dominance.
Their tendency to act out makes interacting with others close to impossible. In a human home, raccoons often feel trapped—which can stir up extra agitation and hatred to fuel the fire.
Raccoons cannot be tamed! It is unsafe to have an adult raccoon trapped in your home with children (or anyone) present!
4) Damage to House
Raccoons are roamers. The natural range for a raccoon is one to three miles. Locking them inside of a house goes against their nature. They need large, open spaces.
Wild animals get irritable if caged in one place for too long. Trapped raccoons will reach out from the cage, grab onto anything within reach, and destroy it. Once let out, they will explore every square inch of your house.
Translation? Say hello to torn and scratched furniture, chewed-up cords, and broken valuables everywhere.
Everything must be not only child-proof but also raccoon-proof. Now that’s a lot to ask for.
5) Say Goodbye to Your Time and Money
Taking care of a raccoon as a pet is a full-time job that can break the bank over time. To ensure a raccoon doesn’t escape; you would need to invest in an expensive cage that locks and is sturdy enough to handle a lot of shenanigans.
What do raccoons eat?
A captive raccoon is prone to obesity.
Grocery stores do not carry a bag of raccoon feed in their pet aisle. Raccoons are omnivorous animals, meaning they eat both plants and meat. If you are considering keeping a raccoon as a pet, it is important to provide a varied and balanced diet to meet their nutritional needs. Raccoons should be fed a combination of:
- High-quality commercial raccoon or omnivore diet
- Fresh fruits and vegetables (e.g. apples, berries, carrots, lettuce)
- Cooked lean proteins (e.g. chicken, turkey, eggs)
- Nuts and seeds
- Clean, fresh water at all times
Raccoons also require a lot of fiber in their diet, so it’s important to include plenty of leafy greens and other high-fiber foods. Additionally, their diet should be supplemented with vitamins and minerals to ensure they are getting all the nutrients they need. Proper nutrition is crucial for a raccoon’s overall health and well-being when kept as a pet.
What about vets?
It is legal in less than 20 states to have a raccoon as a pet. If you live in one of the other 30 states, you won’t be able to find a vet to legally treat a raccoon. You will most likely need to travel to find a vet to care for your raccoon. Then, add on the cost of house damage repairs from emotional outbursts and mischievous behavior. It all adds up.
6) Nearly Impossible to Potty Train
Due to their stubborn nature, raccoons can be difficult to potty train.
While they can be trained to use a litterbox if you irritate them, they will willfully punish you by having accidents around the home; raccoons hold grudges!
7) Adapted to a Nocturnal Lifestyle
As a nocturnal species, raccoons are most active at night. For raccoons held in captivity, this can pose a problem, as most humans sleep during the day. Pet raccoons may keep you up at night by scratching their cage or escaping and causing trouble in your home while you sleep.
Inevitably people will get a raccoon, realize it’s a mistake and let it go. The raccoon will not be equipped to live outside and therefore it could starve, die of disease, or destroy the property looking for a way in.
What’s the Difference Between Keeping an Adult Raccoon as a Pet and Caring for an Orphaned Baby Raccoon?
Wildlife rehabilitators care for orphaned juvenile raccoons to release them back into the wild. Depending on the raccoon kit, it usually happens around 12 weeks but a healthy 10-week-old raccoon kit can be released.
- Providing a safe, secure, and comfortable enclosure: Rehabilitators create a spacious, enriched environment that mimics the raccoon’s natural habitat, with hiding spots, branches, and toys to encourage natural behaviors.
- Feeding a nutritious diet: Raccoons are omnivores, so rehabilitators provide a balanced diet of high-quality commercial raccoon food, fruits, vegetables, and occasional protein sources.
- Administering medical care: Rehabilitators closely monitor the raccoons’ health, providing veterinary treatment for any injuries or illnesses, and administering necessary medications or supplements.
- Socializing and preparing for release: Rehabilitators work to maintain the raccoons’ natural wariness of humans, while also socializing them with other juvenile raccoons to learn important survival skills.
- Gradual release to the wild: When the raccoons are healthy and have developed the necessary survival skills, rehabilitators will release them back into their natural habitat, often in a protected area near where they were found.
As winter approaches and cold weather settles in, animals are looking for places to stay warm. There are a number of ways that nuisance wildlife will den or nest on our properties and in our homes, and there are a few measures that can be taken to help prevent and address these behaviors.
Like humans, critters prefer to stay warm and protected from the elements during cold weather. Attics and crawlspaces provide wildlife with warmth, nesting materials, and safety they need to survive during cold temperatures.
Common Winter Pest Animals
The most common pests we see moving indoors during the colder months are squirrels, rats, mice, raccoons, and opossums. None of these animals must hibernate. So if they are in your home to escape the cold weather, they’ll continue to be a nuisance.
Bats in the winter can pose a unique problem. Some bat species hibernate while other species migrate. If you live in a colder climate, you might have hibernating bats in your attic.
We do not remove hibernating bats, we will repair everything on the structure with the exception of where the bats are roosting until temperatures warm up and the bats start moving again. There are some parts of the U.S. that will have migrating bat problems. For example, homeowners in the Rio Grande area of Texas can have migrating bat problems. In those cases, we can remove bats immediately.
How to Prevent Nuisance Animal Problems During the Winter
It is important to keep a well-manicured lawn year-round, but especially during seasonal changes. Piles of leaves, debris and overgrown bushes and branches can offer a warm, safe environment for critters to nest or den. Additionally, keeping all food/household waste in tightly sealed garbage bins, along with keeping up any outdoor pet food will help deter nuisance wildlife from being attracted to the property.
It’s crucial to conduct routine inspections of your property and to have any entry points sealed by a wildlife control professional to stop and prevent unwanted pests from coming in.
All structures, whether houses, apartments or commercial properties, can have a variety of entry points for pests to make their way inside for warmth and shelter. Chimneys, ground and roof vents, soffits, rooflines, decks and siding all have different types of intentional and unintentional gaps as a part of their structures. As a reference point, both mice and bats can get into spaces less than an inch large.
Costs of Nuisance Wildlife Damage
Nuisance animals can cause hundreds or even thousands of dollars worth of damage to wood, plastic, metal, and insulation in your home such as electric wiring, plumbing pipes. They can also cause this damage very quickly. If you believe you have a nuisance wildlife issue, it is recommended to call a wildlife control professional immediately. This winter, stay one step ahead of these critters and take the proper steps to transition your home to keep the warmth in and the critters out!
About the Author

Meg has over 13 years of experience in the wildlife industry. She started as a wildlife technician and was a district manager and technical training manager supporting the Southeast Region. She currently is one of the company’s wildlife training managers. As one of the training managers, her primary focus is special projects and leading Women in Wildlife.
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The house mouse is also known as the Mus musculus. It is known for its large ears, pointed snout, and virtually hairless tail.
The Virginia opossum is the only marsupial the lives in North America. Opossums have adapted to live in urban and suburban environments.
Benefits of Opossums in Your Yard
Opossums provide natural pest control. Opossums are omnivores and will eat a wide variety of foods including pests such as insects, ticks, small rodents, and even scavenge animal carcasses and roadkill. The opossum diet changes slightly depending on the season. For example, the pests eat a lot of insects in the summer while they mostly consume small mammals in the winter.
How to Attract Opossums to Your Yard
Providing resources for food, water, and shelter can attract opossums. They prefer to nest in tree cavities or abandoned dens of other animals but will often times take up residence in unoccupied attics, garages, sheds, or beneath porches. Opossums are opportunist and will take advantage of any area that they deem suitable for shelter. With that being said, the same things to attract opossums can also attract raccoons, skunks, squirrels, and other nuisance wildlife.
Are Opossums Dangerous?
Opossums are not likely to attack humans unless provoked, but they can damage your property, especially if they take up residence in an attic, barn, shed, etc. Opossums will steal eggs from chicken coops. They make a mess rummaging in garbage cans and eating left out pet food.
How to Prevent Opossums
To keep opossums out of your yard, you need to keep in mind what initially attracts them to it to begin with: food. Opossums are willing to eat just about anything, so be sure to keep your yard food-free:
- Keep all garbage and food scraps tightly sealed, so there’s no obvious food sources lying around for them to inspect and chow down on.
- Keep your yard well groomed. Be sure to pick up sticks, keep your leaves raked and your grass mowed. Failure to maintain your lawn could attract snakes, rodents and other critters that will, in turn, attract opossums to come along in hopes of eating them.
The best way to keep opossums from getting into your home is to physically prevent them from entering. This can be done by conducting annual inspections of your home’s exterior. Amid that process, be sure to:
- Plug any gaps along your home’s foundation
- Cover vents with metal vent covers
- Attach metal flashing or quarter-inch hardware cloth to protect other openings that must be maintained for airflow or exhaust.
Biggest Opossum Myth Debunked
The biggest misconception surrounding opossums is that they are carriers of rabies. Opossums are rarely known to contract rabies and are even less likely to pass it on to other organisms. One interesting fact about Opossums is they are the only marsupial (pouched mammal) in North America. Additionally, Opossums are known to “play dead” when frightened.
About Meg Pearson
Meg has over 13 years of experience in the wildlife industry. She started as a wildlife technician and was district manager and technical training manager supporting the Southeast Region. She currently is one of the company’s wildlife training managers. As one of the training managers, her primary focus is special projects and leading Women in Wildlife.
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Georgia is home to sixteen bat species, and they can live in every region of the state. A suitable bat habitat has close acccess to water, ample food supply, and a safe place to roost during the day. Natural roosting locations include caves and hollowed trees.
Suburban and agricultural landscapes provide similar habitat requirements. Bats will roost in mines, under bridges, in bards, in your attic, inside the walls, or on your roof. Of the sixteen bat species in Georgia, only three bats typically roost in homes. If you have bats in it is likely the little brown bat, big brown bat, or Brazilian free-tailed bat.
Who should call for bat removal in Atlanta, Georgia?
You should call a licensed Nuisance Wildlife Control Operator in Atlanta because bats must be removed from structures through a process of exclusion, not extermination. As per our state laws, intentionally capturing, killing, and harming bats are illegal. This restriction applies to all 16 bat species found in Georgia.
Why are Bats Protected in Georgia?
Out of the 16 local bat species, five are tagged as species of concern within the state. The Indiana bat and the gray bat, meanwhile, on the list of federal and state endangered species.
Bat species currently listed as endangered on the federal level include the Indiana, hoary hat, gray, Florida bonneted, and little Mariana bats. In addition, the Mexican long-nosed, Pacific sheath-tailed, Virginia big-eared, and Ozark big-eared bats are listed for protection.
The federal threatened list includes the Mariana fruit bat and the Northern long-eared bats, while the tri-colored and little brown bats are under review for being endangered.
Benefits of Bats in Georgia
All bats in Georgia are insectivores (no vampire bats). Some small bats can consume up to 1000 small insects in a single hour. A nursing female bat can consume more than 4000 insects a night. It is estimated bats save U.S. farmers roughly $23 billion each year by reducing crop damage and limiting the need for pesticides.
Bat Populations in Georgia Threatened
Despite the benefits bats provide, the bat populations are threatened.
- White-nose syndrome is a fungal disease that spreads through bat colonies and has almost eliminated the Northern long-eared, little brown, and tri-colored bats.
- Bats do not reproduce as quickly as other wildlife. The females typically give birth to one or two pups a year. Slow reproduction puts the species at risk for population decline.
- Pesticides used by farmers reduce the number of bugs available for bats to eat.
- Wind turbines kill hundreds of thousands of migrating bats around the world.
Roosting Bat Concerns in Atlanta
Bats provide tremendous value; however, you do not want bats roosting in your house. Bats pose very little direct danger to people, but they can spread diseases and damage your property.
Bats defecate where they roost. Bat droppings, or guano, can accumulate within walls and attics as well as on the ground and roof tiles. The nutrient-rich droppings cultivate the growth of histoplasmosis fungus, which causes severe respiratory problems in humans.
Bats are indeed capable of contracting and transmitting the rabies virus. Rabies is transmitted via scratch, bite, or when infected saliva comes into contact with human eyes, mouths, or open wounds. So if you find bats in your house, avoid contact!
Bats also harbor ticks and fleas. Those parasites can find new hosts like your family and pets.
Bat Removal in Atlanta, Georgia
To get rid of bats in Georiga, you need to use exclusion not exterminator. In the state of Georgia, not only is it illegal to kill or trap bats, but also you should avoid evict bats from your home if flightless pups are present.
Bat Exclusions Restrictions in Georiga
Bat issues can happen to any home at any time of the year, but they are most common during maternity season. Bat maternity season in Atlanta, GA lasts from April 1st–July 31st. During this time, you should avoid bat removal. During this time of year, bat pups are too young to fly and may become trapped and die inside structures. If exclusions must be completed during this maternity period they must be completed by a licensed Nuisance Wildlife Control Operator like Critter Control.
Spring is ideal for bat removal as it coincides with their return from hibernation or migration but before maternity season starts. After maternity season, the bat colony disperses. Some bats return to the same roost year after year. If you want to prevent bats from entering your home, preventative exclusion is the best precaution you can take.
How to Get Rid of Bats
The most effective and humane way to remove bats is by utilizing a bat valve with a full home exclusion. Exclusion, not bat exterminator. A bat valve allows for bats to exit your home but not re-enter. Since each bat removal is unique, our specialist will use or create a bat valve specifically for your home.
Once the bat valve is installed, all other entry points will be sealed, allowing bats to exit only through the valve. The removal process typically takes 3-7 days. Our specialist will perform a final attic inspection before removing the valve. After removing the valve, the final entry point will be sealed, leaving your home bat-free.

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Pictures of Bats in the Attic


Bat Guano Identification – Signs of Bats in Attic

How Bats Get into Your House


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All Illinois bats are protected under the Wildlife Code (520 ILCS 5/1.1).
Where Do Bats Live in Illinois?
The cave regions of southern Illinois and the valleys of the Mississippi, Illinois River, and Chicago River have ideal natural bat habitats and the highest abundance of bats. Big brown bats, little brown bats, Northern long-eared myotis and tri-colored bats are all colonial bats.
Bat exclusions can be installed when outdoor temperatures exceed 50° F at dusk. Insects are not active at lower temperatures, and all bats in Illinois are insectivores.
When Can You Remove Bats in Attic in Illinois?
Between May 15th to August 5th, you cannot get rid of bats from your attic.
During the spring and summer, females will form maternity colonies in the hollow of trees, attics, or little used buildings. If you find a group of bats in your attic during the spring and summer, tread carefully.
At birth a young bat clings to its mother. When the mother feeds each evening, the young bat is left in the attic. If one were to implement bat removal at this time, the young bats would be stranded inside the attic with no way to feed.
After about three weeks, the young can fly and will start feeding on insects, but they will continue to nurse until they are about 1½ months of age. Once the pups can fly, we can install bat exclusions and a one way valve to get rid of bats in your attic.
Some skill is required to identify all potential entry points because bats can enter through holes as small as 3/8″ (the diameter of a dime) or spaces 3/8″ by 7/8″.
Bat Removal in Chicago, IL
To get rid of bats in Illinois, you need to use exclusion not exterminator. Bats may not be shot, trapped, transported, or held in confinement except when a bat is found in an area where they may have contact with humans or domestic pets.
Bat Exclusions Restrictions in Illinois
You can remove a bat from your living space any time of the year. A living space is any room in your house that you actively use. If a bat or bat colony is in a non-living space, such as an attic, permanent eviction can only occur from March 15 to May 15 when outdoor temperatures exceed 50° F at dusk, and August 5 through October 30 when outdoor temperatures exceed 50° F at dusk. This guideline is in place to protect pups while they are still unable to fly.
How to Get Rid of Bats
The most effective and humane way to remove bats is by utilizing a bat valve in conjunction with a full home exclusion. A bat valve allows for bats to exit your home but not re-enter. Since each bat removal is unique, our specialist will use or create a bat valve specifically for your home.
Once the bat valve is installed, all other entry points will be sealed, allowing for bats to exit only through the valve. The removal process typically takes 3-7 days. Our specialist will perform a final attic inspection before removing the valve. After removing the valve, the final entry point will be sealed, leaving your home bat-free.
Bat Removal during the Winter in Illinois
During the winter they usually roost in mines and caves. If natural habitats aren’t available, bats will winter inside buildings. If able, leave the bats alone for the winter and install exclusions once it gets warm.
They enter a state of bat hibernation called torpor. To survive long periods without a meal, the animals slow their breathing and heart rate to fall into a deep sleep. Unlike true hibernation, bats in this state can wake briefly on warmer days and leave their roost to find meals.
If bats are evicted during one of these warmer months, they won’t have a safe place to return when the temperatures drop again.

Raccoons, like most animals, are attracted to homes and yards that provide water sources, food sources or shelter. Raccoons will drink water out of puddles, bird baths, buckets, or water bowls.
Raccoons are omnivorous and are not picky when it comes to food. Your yard provides plenty of food sources. Raccoons are attracted to vegetables gardens (especially sweet corn), fallen fruit, birdseed, compost, outdoor pet food dishes, or, most famously, unsecured trash cans.
Other sources of food for raccoons are grubs in your yard, fish ponds, and chicken coops (raccoons will eat chickens and their eggs). If you have any easily-accessible sources of food in your yard it is likely you will run into nuisance raccoon issues at some point.
What are some signs that a raccoon has been on your property recently?
The telltale sign is damaged or overturned garbage cans, garden damage, or holes in your yard. Homeowners can also find damage on the siding of their house, in the eaves, soffit, and along the roof.
What kind of damage can raccoons do both indoors & outdoors?
Raccoons are very strong and can quickly cause damage to both indoor and outdoor areas of the home.
On the exterior, Raccoons can ruin vegetable gardens and tear up lawns looking for food like insects, grubs, and earthworms. Additionally, they can cause damage to crawlspaces and sheds if they decide to use them as a denning space.
Raccoons will use their intelligence and know where to use their strength to exploit your home’s weaknesses. If raccoons cannot find easy access inside, their paws allow them to grip and rip into materials commonly found on homes to create access points.
Raccoons are excellent climbers and can climb onto your roof. They can tear up the shingles in your roof to get into your attic and, once inside, they can destroy vents, soffits, insulation and much more, while establishing their dens.
What dangers should homeowners be aware of when dealing with a raccoon problem?
Raccoons are very dangerous to interact with. Though they are typically shy animals that retreat when they sense nearby humans, many of them are growing more and more accustomed to human interaction, as their natural habitats are threatened and decrease. Raccoons can be aggressive. They are most likely to behave aggressively if backed into a corner or are in a situation where they are protecting their young.
Before attacking, they will try to intimidate you by rounding their backs, sticking their fur out, elevating their tails, jumping repeatedly and showing off their claws. They’ll also growl, hiss and shriek at you, in an effort to get you to back off, before they’re forced to physically engage.
Even if a raccoon seems cute and friendly, homeowners should never approach them inside or outside their home (and definitely do not keep them as a pet!).
Do raccoon deterrents work?
Deterrents can be hit or miss; it all depends on the raccoon. Remember: these are very intelligent wild animals; what works to deter them one day might not work the next. If they want to get into your house, they might try several different ways and look for many different entrance points, so deterrents, both natural and manmade might not always be effective.
Homeowners can try repellents like peppermint oil, spicy peppers, garlic, vinegar, citrus peels, ammonia, and fox or coyote urine, but, again, these likely will only work in the short term, if at all.
How do you actually keep raccoons away?
If you want to stop them from hanging around your house altogether, you need to have them rule out your property as a potential shelter, food and source. So, homeowners should:
- Secure their trash cans
- Remove any pet food during the overnight hours
- Remove birdfeeders
- Empty standing water
- Block areas under porches
The most effective way to keep raccoons out of your house is to:
- Seal all vulnerable areas such as roof returns, any loose soffit, and holes that a raccoon might see as a way to enter your home
- Secure vents, chimneys, crawlspaces and basements
- Install tree and roof barriers to prevent climbing
- Keep all tree limbs trimmed back away from the house
At the first sign of a raccoon infestation, it is recommended to reach out to a wildlife control professional right away. The more established an adult raccoon den is on your property or in your house, the more damage it causes. A wildlife removal professional will use a combination of raccoon traps and exclusions to get rid of the raccoons.
About the author
Meg has over 13 years of experience in the wildlife industry. She started as a wildlife technician and was district manager and technical training manager supporting the Southeast Region. She currently is one of the company’s wildlife training managers. As one of the training managers, her primary focus is special projects and leading Women in Wildlife.
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Experiencing a wildlife or pest issue? We can help! Complete this form and your local Critter Control® office will contact you to assist.
The most effective squirrel control is exclusion repairs. Squirrel trapping on solves the immediate problem but still leaves your house vulnerable.
Squirrels’ damage usually comes from their chewing and gnawing. Squirrels can squeeze through a hole the size of a golf ball. Squirrels can chew through siding, wood, metal, and shingles to gain access to your attic.
Squirrel Damage Repairs
Squirrels only need a gap a few inches to gain etnry to your home. Their sharp teeth can gnaw through most house materials, and a squirrel won’t stop gnawing just because the hole is big enough. Once the squirrel has been removed, you need to repair the entry points to keep other squirrels out.
| Squirrel Entry Points | Squirrel Exclusions |
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Critter Control specializes in returning your attic to pristine condition after a nuisance animal infestation. Critter Control technicians have the training and experience to safely remove an animal, repair the damage, and install exclusions for a long-term and holistic solution.
Animals in Attic Damages
If an animal has been living in your attic, it has damaged it. Damage can include contaminated insulation, destroyed insulation, or damaged air ducts. An animal in your attic also introduces health risks like histoplasmosis or leptospirosis.
Dens and Nests
Wildlife will create dens and nests with the available materials in the nooks and crannies of your attic space. Dens and nests are often made using your insulation or HVAC ductwork, but animals can also use cardboard boxes, clothe, paper, and anything available. Dens and nests can reduce the energy efficiency of your home and destroy stored items.
Squirrel’s Nest in Insulation
Insulation Removed by Squirrel
Droppings in Attic
Feces and urine from any animal infestation not only create terrible odors but also cause structural damage to your home. Animal droppings will contaminate the insulation and reduce the r-value. Feces and urine can rot and contaminate wood, and ruin stored personal items in the attic. Animal feces in the attic may also lead to stained ceilings and drywall. and terrible odors.
Rodent Droppings in Attic
Raccoon Damage in Attic
Attic Remediation
When considering attic remediation, you want a service provider that can do more than install insulation. Our attic remediation services restore your attic to its original condition. We clean up any debris introduced from squirrels and raccoons. We will clean up any animal droppings and remove soiled insulation. Finally, we can replace the attic insulation
Attic Insulation Replacement
The proper amount of attic insulation will help reduce your energy bills. Contact Critter Control to inspect your current insulation level. Our technicians can install new insulation to bring your attic up to the recommended level of insulation.
Many insulation materials can be difficult to work with. Let the professionals at Critter Control of Indianapolis complete your attic insulation installation. We will remove attic insulation that has been soiled and damaged with wildlife droppings and dispose of it.Raccoon Damage in Attic Repair
New Insulation Installation
Full Attic Restoration Process
In certain cases, a full attic restoration is necessary.
Step 1: Remove all current insulation in attics and remove large feces by hand with protective gloves or an industrial vacuum
Step 2: If necessary, remove the small feces from the attic using a HEPA-filtered vacuum.
Step 3: Fogging the entire attic with a disinfectant-virucide-deodorizer.
Step 4: Replace soffit baffles and recessed light covers as necessary.
Step 5: Install new, energy-efficient insulation.
Benefits of Using Critter Control’s Attic Restoration Services
For more than forty years, our team has been committed to providing humane methods when removing animals from any property. We take special care to think about an animal’s mating cycles, offspring, and nearby habitats where these animals can make a new home.
Our CritterSafe program uses tactics such as non-lethal animal removal, no-trap animal control, wildlife release on-site, and one-way doors to let animals leave on their own to minimize stress.
Critter Control personnel are expertly trained and maintain ongoing learning to keep up with best practices and new methods. In addition, we have a satisfaction guarantee extended to all customers. Every animal infestation is unique. We’ll create a custom wildlife damage control plan specific to your situation.
All photos courtesy of Critter Control of New Hampshire
Porcupines venture into residential areas for a surprising reason—they crave salt that they cannot get from their diet of leaves and bark, and there is plenty of it near humans. Some of their favorite sources of salt include car tires that have driven through salted streets, tool handles and boat oars found in sheds, horse saddles, and plywood that is glued with a sodium-based material. Porcupines are an uncommon home intruder. If one is a regular in your yard, it is likely because of unusual circumstances such as a drought or food shortage.

We trapped and relocated these two porcupines.
The biggest nuisance is when dogs bother them. They will defend themselves. Porcupines can strip and kill an ornamental tree in less than a week. In the forest,this helps with opening the forest floor as well as providing food sources for woodpeckers. They find food in the decaying tree. Nature has its process.

Owls will use the cavities opened by woodpeckers.









